How to stain wood

Is sanding necessary? Is a pre-stain conditioner necessary? What kinds of lumber are best? Are multiple coats needed? How much stain will you need?

First, how much stain do I need? Approximately 150 square feet of coverage per quart. Measure the surface area square footage of your project to determine how much stain you will need. For example, for a wood door that is 3 feet by 6 feet, the square footage is 18 square feet on one side. If you need more than one can of stain – mix in a separate container.

Did you know you can also mix stain colors? It is possible, and fun to experiment with mixing stain colors, just keep in mind that duplicating the color will be very difficult.

Prep:

When sanding and staining, work in a well lit, well ventilated area. Make sure to protect your clothes and skin from stain, I use a painters apron during staining projects. Make sure to wear protective gloves like these.

Temperature is also important. Too cold or too hot will effect the stain. Too much humidity will also effect the stain, and it could be difficult to wipe away excess stain, causing blotchiness.

If the wood has a finish already, use a paint stripper, and/or sand with 60 or 80 grit sandpaper to remove any finish. (FOLLOW ALL SAFETY PRECAUTIONS WHEN USING PAINT STRIPPER).

Once you have exposed raw lumber, you can begin finish-sanding. If using a palm or orbital sander, it is recommended to attach a vacuum hose to the sander to avoid excessive dust. If you are hand sanding, wear a protective dust to avoid inhaling sawdust.

For most woods, start with 120 grit. Then progress by sanding with 150 grit, then 180 grit, then 220 grit.

Sanding prior to staining will avoid 1) little raised fibers in the wood grain that can create imperfections in the finished look, and 2) ensure that any unseen imperfections (like water blotches) have been removed prior to staining. So while it isn’t necessary, it will greatly improve the finished look of the project.

If using a softer wood like pine, fur, or maple, use a pre-stain conditioner after sanding. If using a pre-stain conditioner, it is best to stain within 2 hours of conditioning. A pre-stain conditioner soaks into the wood so that when the stain is applied, it will soak in more evenly. It isn’t necessary, but will avoid blotchiness in the finished piece.

Before staining, remove all dust by either vacuuming or wiping down with a damp rag with mineral spirits, or you can even use a tack cloth. (I’ve even used a leaf blower, whichever works) 🙂

Stain:

Make sure to shake the can of stain well, or mix with a paint mixing stick, as the color tends to settle to bottom.

There are lots of ways to apply stain: using a rag, using a coarse bristle brush, using a regular paint brush, or using a foam brush. There are likely others, but my favorite for applying stain is a foam brush. It is easy to be precise when applying the stain, especially into small corners and crevices, and they are generally very cheap. If using a cloth, make sure the cloth used is lint-free.

Using a foam brush (or another method you prefer) apply the stain liberally, going with the wood grain, until the wood is completely covered. If staining a large surface, like a door, work in sections, and use a Handi-Painter. This will allow you to apply the stain in tight corners as well as use/waste less stain. (TIP: These Handi-painters can be cut in half!) After waiting 1-2 minutes, wipe away the excess stain using a clean lint-free rag. Wipe in the direction of the wood grain. You can wipe away the excess immediately, but know the color will be more saturated the longer it’s left. DO NOT allow the stain to dry before wiping the excess.

If any streaks present, continue wiping excess until you have removed all the excess. If your rag becomes too soaked with stain, get a new rag. WARNING: Ensure you dispose of stain-soaked rags carefully. Lay them flat to dry, and DO NOT stack them. Soaked rags can spontaneously combust if piled into a trash can.

Unlike with painting, it is NOT recommended to sand between coats. In fact, additional coats are not necessary unless you prefer a more saturated color. If you do want multiple coats, wait 2 hours before applying an additional coat.

Once the stain finish is to your liking, allow the stain to dry for at least 8 hours. Allow 24 hours before sealing.

Sealing/Finishing:

To protect your wood project after staining, apply a protective coating. The most common way to seal is using Polyurethane clear finish. Using a cheap nylon fiber brush, apply 2-3 coats, waiting at least 1-2 hours between coats. If any bubbles present when applying the finish, brush the bubbles out with the paint brush.

This protective coating will ensure your wood project will stay beautiful for years to come! WARNING: Ensure you dispose of soaked rags carefully. Lay them flat to dry, and DO NOT stack them. Soaked rags can spontaneously combust if piled into a trash can.

Happy DIY’ing!